Tools Needed
Step 1
Drill hole in bottle cap
Step 2
Zip tie the hose tube about ½ inch from the end and cut off excess. DO NOT ZIP TIE THE TUBE SHUT!
Step 3
Insert the hose from the bottom of the bottle cap.
Step 4
Attach cap to bottle and put clamp on end.
Step 5
Attach hose to brake bleeder nipple and use the clamp to hold in place. TA DA!
Step 6
Push tube down into bottle for easy storage.
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Tools Needed
1. Front Brake Flush
Step 1
Remove master cylinder brake reservoir cap with Torx screwdriver or socket. Wrap rag/shop towel around reservoir to make sure that nasty fluid doesn’t get everywhere.
Step 2
Fit an 8mm wrench and hose to caliper bleed nipple, but do not loosen! Also, connect hose to fluid catch.
*Hot tip: try to maintain and upward angle/kink in the hose. This will allow brake fluid and not air back into the system if fluid flow is reversed (usually happens when brake lever is released before tightening the nipple)
Step 3
Make sure reservoir has brake fluid. If not adequate, add fluid.
Step 4
Pump brake lever multiple times (2-3 times should be fine or until firm lever feel). HOLD LEVER!
Step 5
Slightly loosen caliper nipple (you will feel the lever depress). DO NOT RELEASE LEVER YET!
Step 6
Tighten caliper nipple.
Step 7
Release lever. Repeat step 3-6 until fluid comes out clean and brake feel is firm (not squishy or spongy).
Step 8
Fill brake fluid to proper level
Step 9
Put on master cylinder brake reservoir cap. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS!
Note: make sure the rubber under the cap looks like this and not extended!
Step 10
Wipe up any brake fluid. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive and over time it can eat through the powder coating on wheels and paint on the tank! I just spray some brake clean onto a microfiber towel and wipe.
2. Rear Brakes
Step 1
Remove master cylinder brake reservoir cap. Wrap rag/shop towel around reservoir.
Step 2
Fit 11mm wrench and hose to rear caliper bleed nipple.
Step 3
Make sure reservoir has brake fluid. If not adequate, add fluid.
Step 4
Pump brake lever multiple times (2-3 times should be fine or until firm lever feel). HOLD LEVER!
Step 5
Slightly loosen caliper nipple (you will feel the lever depress). DO NOT RELEASE LEVER YET!
Step 6
Tighten caliper nipple.
Step 7
Release lever. Repeat step 3-6 until fluid comes out clean and brake feel is firm (not squishy or spongy).
Step 8
Fill brake fluid to proper level and put on cap.
Step 9
Wipe up any brake fluid.
Test
Test! Don't just go out and ride your Scrambler without going through this process. It wouldn't be a lot of fun to pull the lever in to find out your brakes don't work properly.
Step 1
Pull in the front brake and feel for a firm lever. Then go ahead and do the same for the rear.
Step 2
Go for a test ride. Start out slow (I roll the bike forward and try the brakes before riding), then bring the bike to a stop. Slowly build up speed and follow with braking. Repeat and slowly build up speed with each test. I usually give a few CONTROLLED hard stops (make sure where you are not braking on a loose or wet surface).
Step 3
Give yourself a pat of the back for doing such an awesome job and revel in your ability to work on your own bike.
]]>So you have purchased the Scrambler Ducati Cafe Racer, and you love almost everything about it, but loathe the plastic number plates. This post is not for everyone, as there are many that love the Cafe Racer out of the box, but for those that wish for a sleek option here is some insight on how to substitute those plastic stock seat panels.
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In this post, we will be using the BMG Concept slim seat panel set as they are beautiful with elegant bends and are the easiest to install. They are the only panels that include splash guards on both sides to protect your core.
[Exhaust side]
[Rear Shock side]
Typically in any other Scrambler model replacing the seat panels is as simple as replacing the stock panels on each side with an aftermarket slim-line seat panel. With the Cafe Racer plastic seat panels, however, there is a notable difference. The plastic 54s and seat lock opening is one single piece, and instead of having the key lock opening underneath the seat as in other Scrambler 800 models, it protrudes to the rear shock side of the bike. This is the main issue of the seat panel conversion, because of this, sleek seat panels such as the ones made my BMG concept cannot be mounted.
Fortunately, there is a solution. Though it the Cafe Racer stock number plate is a single piece, we have to look at it in 3 parts to make the number plate conversion - left panel, right panel, and mud flap. The only thing you need to do is get yourself the mud flap from an icon. You can get it HERE or pick one up from your local dealer (part 4601G832A).
[Render]
This relocates the seat lock to underneath the seat allowing for flush installation of the BMG Concept panels. Once this is completed it is a simple installation!
Here are some images from @starknakked showing how it looks. Clean, smooth, beautiful.
What do you think? Would you want to replace the number plates or keep it stock? Comment below and if you have any questions about modifying your Scrambler feel free to email us at hello@astroscrambler.com.
]]>The stock gearing for the Scrambler 800s, Desert Sled, and Cafe Racer prioritizes the lower gears to take on some dirt riding. The stock set up for the front and rear sprocket is 15 and 46 respectively, giving a ratio of ~3.07 (rear sprocket (46) divided by front sprocket (15) gives you the ratio). Without going into crazy detail, a gearing ratio lower than 3.07 would mean higher top-speed and less torque than stock, and a gearing ratio higher than 3.07 would mean a lower top-speed and more torque than stock.
Note: we have not explored the optimal gearing for the Scrambler 62 (15 and 48t) or the 1100 (15 and 39t) yet, but the same principals apply!
So what should I prioritize?
For me, and many other Scrambler riders and racers (Heath 'The Chief' Cofran & Jerrett Martin), the need is more a higher top speed. We feel that the engine RPM is too high at cruising highway speeds thus causing excessive strain on the engine. We all complain about the same thing, but none of us want to lose that fun torquey quality, how do we fix that? Find the balance. In this case we will have to give up some grunt for easier top speed. Again our baseline comparator is the stock set up - 15t front sprocket and 46t rear sprocket, and there are two options we explored.
Option 1 (16 teeth front sprocket, stock 46 teeth rear sprocket): 2.88 gear ratio
The positive side of changing front sprocket to 16 teeth is less overall wear on the engine, front sprocket and chain, higher top speed, and it is cost effective - a front sprocket costs 20 to 30 dollars!
It is important to note that your sprockets wear down at the same rate, so it is always optimal to change your chain, front, and rear sprockets out together. But if you have a fresh chain and little miles on your rear sprocket, it is the most cost effective to simply switch out your front sprocket. This way, you can test out this gearing and see if a lower ratio is for you!
Another important note, because there is limited clearance at the front sprocket position, and the front sprocket would be changed to a larger tooth (from 15t to 16t) some people report that they had issues fitting the front due to inadequate spacing between the chain and the engine casing. Clearance issues may vary on your particular bike due to manufacturing variability. Some (not all) riders have reported having to file metal to make the chain fit a 16 teeth sprocket.
Option 2 (stock 15 teeth front sprocket, 44 teeth rear sprocket): 2.93 Gear ratio
Change the rear to a 44 teeth sprocket and get a new chain with 2 LESS LINKS THAN STOCK (super important if the bold letters didn't indicate that already). Why do you need two less links? Taking 2 teeth outmeans the axle adjustment will have to slide much farther back thus changing the wheelbase of the bike and suspension geometry. Worse case scenario is you will run out of adjustment and the chain won't work anyway. So get a new chain with two less links than factory!
Astroscrambler top tip: Get a complete chain and sprocket kit consisting of a 15t front sprocket, 44t rear sprocket, and a chain with 2 less links than stock. Front sprockets generally wear out faster since they are smaller so you might as well replace it when changing the gearing ratio. Rule of thumb is also to change the chain when replacing any sprockets thus allowing the new sprocket to seat the mating surfaces to a new chain thus preventing premature wear from a stretched used chain. So get the kit and you won't need to worry about chain and sprocket maintenance for awhile!
Should I change my gearing?
If you do mainly city commuting and don't mind the stock gear ratio, then don't worry about it. However, if you ride a decent amount on the highway, want better MPG and less wear on the engine, or just hate shifting too often then we recommend changing the gearing. It's a relatively cheap upgrade to do that you can time with your next interval chain and sprocket replacement.
How should I choose my chain?
Your Scrambler is powered by chain drive, meaning the power that comes from the engine passes through your chain. We recommend a high-strength aftermarket chain from top brands such as ER, RK and DID. High quality chains are optimally rigid, giving you smoother handling, power loss reduction, and a quicker response compared to stock. Most importantly, if properly maintained it will LAST 8-10k miles! Stay tuned for our next article on different chain types!
Summary - OEM sprockets 15t front and 46t rear.
Option #1 16t front sprocket (+1) and 46t rear sprocket (no change) = 2.88.
Advantages
Option #2 15t front sprocket (no change) and 44t rear sprocket (-2) = 2.93
Advantages
Disadvantages
What do you think? Which gearing ratios have you tried? Has anyone opted to go higher than 3.07? We have heard some feedback on the Desert Sled riders that they wanted more low-end power.
]]>One of the first mods anyone does to their bike is changing the exhaust. Generally speaking replacing the stock exhaust makes your bike lighter and sound significantly better, but it also changes the amount of air coming out of the bike.
No matter if it is a Slip-on or a full system, it is important to do some sort of fuel management to go along with it. Since you added more air flow you need to correct the amount of gas being fed, otherwise you’d be running lean (Air > Fuel). If you run your bike lean you may experience hotter than average engines, jerky throttles, and your exhaust may crackle and backfire. Yes, crackling and backfires sound cool but thats not the best thing for your bike.
There are a few ways to address this on fuel injected bikes.You can flash a new fuel map onto your bike’s ECU, install a tuning kit (Rexxer), or install a booster plug. There’s no definitive answer as to which you should choose but I highly recommend choosing one of these options. In a nutshell, your bike will run much better and if you decide to do more performance mods in the future it will make your life so much easier.
What does a tuning kit do?
Installing any form tuning kit will allow you to re-flash your ECU to your hearts content. These kits tap into your bike and basically tell the injectors how much fuel to feed your bike at any given RPM. You can increase or decrease this according to your exact set up. Every setup will be different, it is all dependent upon any performance mod you have. For example, say you have a Scrambler with a full aftermarket exhaust and a new air filter. You can buy a Rexxer kit and have it sent to you with a specific map for your exact bike model and set up, and if your setup changes you can download a map online. Keep in mind these are general tunes, if you want to achieve the maximum potential of your mods you will have to get it dyno-tuned at a shop, which usually costs a significant amount more. In addition to tuning, a Rexxer unit will let you read and clear check engine light, reset maintenance light, reset TPS, adjust trimmer, and clear adaptive parameters. One of these kits will set you back about $600, but it’s well worth the investment.
What does a booster plug do?
A booster plug is a more budget friendly option at around $200. It fits in your bike’s air intake temperature sensor and tricks the ECU into thinking that the running temperatures are lower and adjusts the amount of fuel being fed to the engine. It automatically adjusts your bike to run richer (Fuel > Air) to even out the Air-Fuel. It balances the mixture, but there is nothing else up its sleeve.
Co-Op garages are on the rise for a reason, if you have one near you they offer all of the tools you’ll ever need and more. You’ll meet other riders and some co-ops even offer classes where they’ll teach you how to properly take care of your bike, all for some sort of membership fee of course. I highly recommend joining one if you can.
If that’s not an option for you of course there’s an alternative. As long as you have some spare time, lots of patience, and decent wifi connection for tutorials you can easily maintain your own Scrambler. Getting your hands dirty and working on your own bike not only teaches you valuable skills, but it also just makes you have a deeper connection with your bike. Plus it saves you a ton of money in the long run, so that’s always a bonus!
First and foremost you need the right tools for the job. While Ducati does provide you with a tool kit located underneath the seat, they are purposed for emergency road repairs. We recommend you invest in some quality tools to help get the job done! Even after you decide to part with your bike you will have a nice set of tools to work with.
Here’s what you need:
- An allen wrench set (those little L-shaped hexagon things)
- A Socket Wrench Set
- Phillips and Flat Head Screwdriver (You can buy a set with interchangeable ends)
- An Adjustable wrench OR Wrench Set
- Tire Pressure gauge
Aside from these tools, you are also going to need whatever fluids or parts that correspond to your service. This includes (but is not limited to) engine oil and filters, brake fluid and brake pads, air filters, timing belts, spark plugs, and fork fluid.
For all models, Ducati recommends the following parts:
Engine Oil: Any 15w50 (Oil and oil filter Change Guide)
Oil Filter: K&N Filters Model KN-153
Brake Fluid: Dot3
Spark Plugs: NGK DCPR8E
Directly Below is a list of all the things you should check and change during the various service intervals.
At Every Service Interval (or Once Every Year)
Check
Visually check
Change
- Reset the Service indication through the DDS - Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (ex. ABS) and idling
In addition to everything listed above, there are other things you must address depending on your mileage/use. You can find the rest of those below.
SPECIFICALLY AT 600 Miles (or within the first 6 months of riding)
Check
- Reading of the error memory with DDS and check of software version update on control units
SPECIFICALLY AT 7,500 Miles
Check
Visually check
EVERY 15,000 Miles
Change
Check...
SPECIFICALLY At 22500 Miles
- Change front fork fluid
If you think something is seriously wrong and do not have a solution you can find, you always have the option to bring it to a professional! Depending on your mechanic, it also doesn’t hurt to ask if you can watch how they do something or have them explain it to you. That’s how I learn!
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